Audemars Piguet calendar: From the basic calendar, the calendar to the calendar-type top - calendar In the 140 years since its founding in 1875, Audemars Piguet, a Swiss luxury watch maker, has never stopped researching and innovating sophisticated timepieces. Calendar-based timepieces based on date, day of the week, and month are becoming more sophisticated as the needs of the times and technological advancements, and the moon-phase function of the poetic aesthetic. At the same time, in the development of the full calendar feature watch (date, day of the week, month and moon phase display), this type of watch to the pinnacle of sophisticated features - calendar at the same time completed from the pocket watch into the wearable wrist Between the watch period. Audemars Piguet, rooted in the Vallée de Joux in the Swiss Jura, has long been known for its focus on complex watchmaking. In the 1920s, Audemars Piguet introduced the first full calendar watch. Since then, Audemars Piguet has continued to focus on calendar-type watches and has introduced the first calendar watch with a leap year display and an ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar watch in the 1960-1970s. In the span of half a century of time, the love of his calendar-type watch witnessed the success of the brand at different times has always adhered to the tabulation heritage. From the establishment of the brand to 1895, Audemars Piguet's watch follows the tradition that Audemars Piguet always adheres to: firstly completing the design concept of the watch, then designing and making the components, and decorating and assembling the watch into the final watch. During this period, each Audemars Piguet watch is a unique style, and only produce one. Subsequently, brand founders Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet decided to change their production strategy to shift watchmaking from design priority to movement priority: first by producing a batch of basic movements of the same function, Different case and dial, and for the same batch of movement using a specific number. Based on the changes in the production system, Audemars Piguet began using the recording system entitled "Registres des Montres Complètes" to more fully and accurately record the movement of each watch sold, the case and Dial information. 1875 Audemars Piguet the beginning of the watch factory When the value of the 1920s, Audemars Piguet will watch the production of traditional calendar continues to the rapid development of the field of watches, officially opened the prelude to calendar-type watch production. Audemars Piguet first watch with a full calendar display (date, day of the week, moon, moon phase and month of age) Caliber 10GHSM launched in the 1920s, the design of the full calendar mechanism and basic movement specifications exactly match The basic movement provides power for the switching of all calendar functions. The Caliber 10GHSM was manufactured according to the then highest process standards: the main plate was decorated in a circular pattern, the bridge was decorated with Geneva lines and sandblasted, the edges were polished with a chamfer, the bimetallic washer was automatically compensated for temperature, Precise adjustment of eight directions. According to the previously determined production strategy, Audemars Piguet's first full-time watch equipped with this movement produced a total of 108, the production cycle until the late 1940s. Audemars Piguet's first Caliber 10GHSM movement on a calendar-type watch In order to fit the decorative art style prevailing 1920-1930s, Audemars Piguet's first full-time watch in the design of the distinctive, the most representative of the case is the use of rectangular case Ref.33816 watch and its derivative watch Ref .36578. The full-length wristwatch Ref. 3816 is available in a 26 x 30 mm platinum case with integrated lugs extending downwardly and rounded at the ends; a gold dial with a decorative Arabic numerals and Breguet hourly , Minute hand with the outside of the classic orbital minute scale, the full calendar function of the deputy dial symmetrically distributed in the 3,6,9 and 12 o'clock position, clear readings. This watch is made of precious metal, a total of about 50 production, major customers include Bittmann, E. Gübelin and Egouvillon Van Cleef and so on. The Ref.33816 watch shown below is for sale in the E.Gübelin style, engraved with customer information at the 6 o'clock moon phase display. Audemars Piguet first full-time watch Ref.33816, produced in the 1920s, White gold case and Caliber 10GHSM movement Based on the success of the first all-time watch Ref.33816, Audemars Piguet launched the derivative Ref.36578 on this watch. This watch in the case of design and Ref.33816 consistent, the functional layout of the dial is more modern features: two square windows parallel to display the day of the week and the month, the window below the fan-shaped window to display the date. Compared to the full calendar watch Ref.33816, the derivative model Ref.36578 production is only 11, of which eight platinum case, and one made of platinum material. Audemars Piguet Antiques Ref.36578, Date, Week, and Month are displayed in the windows As the first of its kind to be applied to the watch's full-time movement, and was born in a period of distinctive decorative art, Caliber 10GHSM movement witnessed Audemars Piguet brand new developments and innovations in the field of multi-functional watches. With the continuous improvement of the "Registres des Montres Complètes" system, different watch models equipped with this movement are also recorded in detail and kept to this day. Into the 1930s, with the popularity of chronograph watch, Audemars Piguet first chronograph function and the integration of the full calendar display, the introduction of the new Caliber 13VZAQ movement. In the nearly 20 years from 1933 to 1952, Audemars Piguet made nearly 300 watches with chronograph functions based on the famous Valjoux 13 movement, of which only 20 had the full calendar because of the Caliber 13VZAQ movement Features. During the development of the Caliber 13VZAQ movement, Audemars Piguet adopted the strategy of "low output and high quality": the timing function is controlled by the column wheel and the horizontal clutch, the whole calendar function is adjusted through the embedded buttons on both sides of the case and adopted Enamel material and solid gold sculpture to create the moon phase plate, the main plywood and bridge plywood still using traditional guidelines to manually polished decoration. Caliber 13VZAQ movement at the end of the table and dial surface view, moon phase plate with enamel and solid gold material In 1943, five Calvin Klein 13VZAQ caliber Chronograph Ref.7020 advent. This watch uses the then rare 36.50 mm large size gold case, drop-shaped ear and oval chronograph buttons have become the biggest bright spot in the case design. Dial design, mounted on the square of the real gold standard highlights the characteristics of the times, the timing and the calendar shows the return to the traditional layout, 30-minute timing and the month shows the 3 o'clock position, at 6 o'clock for the enamel and solid gold to create moon phase And the age of the moon shows that the outer dial with the then practical tachymeter scale. The only five Ref.7020 watches sold one by one in the following decade, the current known by a professional watch website HODINKEE founder Benjamin Clymer collection. Love watch with both timekeeping function Ref.7020, produced in 1943, Now by Benjamin Clymer, founder of HODINKEE By 1959, 20 watches, including the Ref.7020 watch, with both timekeeping and full calendar functions were sold, and the era of the Caliber 13VZAQ movement came to an end. This movement makes Audemars Piguet a new chapter in the development and production of calendar-type watches and lays a solid foundation for the subsequent launch of the brand's versatile watch. Into the reconstruction stage after the Second World War, Audemars Piguet still insisted on the continued development of the calendar-type watch. At that time, Audemars Piguet a total of 33 watchmakers and technicians responsible for the movement and watch development, their cumulative working life is an alarming 760 years. In collaboration with these experienced watchmakers, the new Caliber 9 / 10RSQ movement becomes another milestone in the history of the Audemars Piguet watch. This movement is based on the Louis-Elysée Piguet movement, the calendar mechanism to meet the different needs of the window-style and dial-type display, the unique shape of the bridge splint and a new design enamel moon phase material as this movement The biggest bright spot. In 1949, the first Ref. 5504 equipped with Caliber 9 / 10RSQ movement was launched. The 37mm slim gold case meets the needs of the time. The circular ring of the center hands and the horizontal double-window design create an extremely high degree of recognition at that time, leading the design trend of the calendar watch in the 1950s. Caliber 9 / 10RSQ movement at the end of the table and dial surface view, Serpentine bridge plate and the new moon phase plate to become the most prominent feature Audemars Piguet full-time watch Ref. 5504, introduced in 1949, Slim gold case and Caliber 9 / 10RSQ movement Ref.5504 watch immediately won the market since the introduction of high recognition: the first batch of 20 watches made of gold case with 13 in two years have been sold out. Based on Caliber 9 / 10RSQ movement did not come to an end, Audemars Piguet launched in the same period Ref.5513 watch, become Audemars Pigurator watch history of the most important masterpiece: the design of this watch , Became the first source of inspiration for the Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar watch with the Caliber 2120/2800 self-winding movement of the 1970s. 1951 Apec the full moon watch Ref.5513, Laid the 1970s brand the first self-winding calendar watch design After more than thirty years of development and accumulation, Audemars Piguet finally became the ultimate in the development of a calendar-type watch: the first Caliber 13VZSSQP perpetual calendar with a leap year in watch history was introduced. The movement is based on the 29.30 mm diameter Valjoux movement, which is made by independent watchmaker Alfred Aubert and finished by Auntie, polished, precision tuned and assembled. In 1955, the first Perpetual Calendar Ref.5516 equipped with the Caliber 13VZSSQP movement was officially launched and became the first mass-produced perpetual calendar in watch history. For the first time, this watch also displays the leap year display on the dial: This display has long been standard on the calendar pocket watch and is usually presented separately over a four-year, 48-month period. Due to the size constraints imposed on the watch, this leap year presentation has not been achieved in the watch due to the limited clarity of the reading. Ref.5516 watch innovative, the month and leap year display independently through the sub-dial design to ensure the calendar clearly shows the various functions, the date is displayed with the central pointer and the dial around the Arabic numerals and dot time scale to achieve. Between 1955 and 1969, Audemars Piguet sold 12 Ref.5516 watches with different dial designs, including 9 with innovative leap year display. In 1955, Audemars Piguet released the first show with a leap year Perpetual Calendar Movement Caliber 13VZSSQP Ref.5516, the first watch in the history of the first mass-produced perpetual calendar watch, Innovative leap year shows the secondary dial at 12 o'clock During the quartz crisis sweeping the traditional watch industry in Switzerland, Audemars Piguet launched the Caliber 2120/2800, an ultra-thin perpetual calendar movement with self-winding mechanism in 1978. Fifteen years after the first Ref.5548, equipped with the Caliber 2120/2800 self-winding self-winding movement, the number of employees at Audemars Piguet factory has doubled to 285. During this time, Au Bike sold more than 7,000 perpetual calendar watches with Caliber 2120/2800 self-winding self-winding movement. To date, the Caliber 2120/2800 Self-Winding Caliber, which measures only 3.95mm in thickness, remains the world's thinnest center-mounted automatic self-winding calendar. The success of the Caliber 2120/2800 Self-Winding Movement not only made Audemars Piguet a significant development during the Quartz crisis, but also witnessed Audemars Piguet's evolution from the base calendar, the calendar to the top of the calendar-type calendar . Until today, Audemars Piguet's decision to launch a complex perpetual calendar counter-attack during the Quartz crisis is still being told. In 1978, Audemars Piguet introduced the world's thinnest in the crisis of the quartz Centrally placed Tuo self-winding calendar watch Ref.5548 Caliber 2120/2800 self-winding movement In 1984, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Series Perpetual Calendar Ref. 554 with Caliber 2120/2800 self-winding movement was officially launched. The first batch of Ref.5554 watch production reached 279, of which 229 gold case, 49 steel case, and a watch made of platinum orphan goods. Since then, with the continuing success of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks and the Royal Oak Offshore, the perpetual calendar-calendar function, the perpetual calendar-perpetual calendar, continues in one of Audemars Piguet's most iconic collections Innovation and development. Since the birth of the Caliber 10GHSM movement in the 1920s and the advent of the first self-winding perpetual calendar Ref. 5548 in 1978, Audemars Piguet has been developing and innovating calendar-type watches for half a century. In the watch design and movement continue to stick to research and development, Audemars Piguet also witnessed the rapid development of production methods and production records: from a small workshop consisting of independent body form of production, progress to the integration of the independent watch factory as the representative Type production and sales process, followed by continuous improvement of the "watch the whole structure of the register (Registres des Montres Complètes)" system, are Audemars Piguet into the automatic movement era and complex function watch development laid a strong foundation. Audemars Piguet watches adhere to and innovate, inherit the brand since the Pocket Watch era of continuous pursuit of excellence, and for today's world-famous Audemars Piguet watch pioneering. Different times, the heritage remains unchanged, Audemars Piguet a hundred years experience that sincere, writing from the brilliant valleys of the valley. In 2016, let's witness the golden return of legendary masterpieces: To break the rules, you must first master them. Original source: http://www.neeu.com/watch/news/2015-12-14/61226.html