The use of iron locks

The English name of the iron lock is called Carabiner.

Iron locks used in early mountaineering were made of steel or iron. The steel iron locks are characterized by their robustness and high tensile strength (some of them can withstand 4000-5000 kg of tension). The disadvantage is the heavy weight, which increases the load on the climber and cannot be carried in large quantities. Later, this type of iron lock was gradually replaced by aluminum alloy iron locks. The aluminum alloy iron locks are light and strong. At present, some manufacturers produce titanium alloy iron locks that are superior to aluminum alloys.

The iron lock is the most widely used and most indispensable and alternative equipment for climbing equipment. The main purpose of the iron lock when climbing is to use the climbing rope and the intermediate pivot. Iron locks can replace many complex and cumbersome knots in climbing. The combination and use of many climbing equipment such as seat belts, ascents, descenders, etc., must be linked by iron locks. The iron lock is a safety guarantee when climbing and climbing the rock wall. Some people call the iron lock the safety buckle. When climbing, the protection rope is connected to the middle fulcrum through iron locks. Any one of the iron locks must be strong enough to withstand the impact when the climber suddenly falls. But what about being sturdy enough? According to the Falling Test of the International Mountaineering Association (ULAA), the protective ropes must be able to withstand a tensile force of at least 1,200 kilograms. Due to the braking friction of the ropes on the iron locks, the load on the iron locks should be the three loads of the protective ropes in the ULAA fall test. Four times as much, so the iron lock must withstand at least 1500 kg of impact. In other words, in order to obtain maximum safety in a serious crash, at least iron locks can withstand such loads.

The normal tension of the aluminum alloy iron lock is generally 2000~3000kg to ensure the safety of the climber. Iron locks are generally classified into O-type iron locks, D-type iron locks, and modified D-type iron locks. The advantages of O-type iron locks are low friction and wide range of use. O-type iron locks have better mobility than D-type iron locks on rock cones, ice cones, and snow cones. When climbing, O-type iron locks are generally used for risers. The connection of pulleys and other equipment does not withstand the impact tension under normal conditions. O-type iron locks are very active and do not get caught in sharp corners and change direction or move suddenly. The disadvantage is that the impact resistance is small. The load of the O-type iron lock is equally shared by both sides of the iron lock. Generally, the load can withstand 1500 to 1800 kg of tension. The D-type iron lock is a kind of iron lock that is used more often in climbing. The D-type iron lock is stronger than the O-type iron lock. The D-type iron lock almost bears all the load from the long side opposite to the opening, so it is subject to strong impact force. , high safety factor. The traditional D-type iron lock is mainly used for mountaineering adventures. The iron locks for rock climbing have been improved on the basis of the traditional D-type iron locks. The opening is larger and shaped like a cashew, which makes it easier for climbers to padlock with one hand during the climb. Iron locks with protection screws, mostly large triangles or large D-types, are used for the complex connection of equipment. The most common use is for the connection of the protection rope and the safety belt, and for the protection of the upper rope and the upper protection. The link of fulcrum, therefore, generally we also call this type of iron lock to protect the iron lock. The iron lock has two basic states, open and closed, and the iron lock can withstand three times the pulling force when it is closed.

The climber should pay special attention when using the iron lock: after hanging the iron lock, turn the iron lock opening downwards and outwards, or down and towards the climber. Iron lock openings, such as facing the rock surface, are accidentally opened by friction or collision on rocks, and are prone to danger. Before use, iron locks must be carefully inspected for cracks or cracks. Openings and closings of openings must be smooth and unobstructed. Openings can be opened when supporting the weight of the climber. If the iron lock is in use for a period of time, the opening is easy to stick and cannot be opened. The charge may be the cut edge of the opening or the lock, and the dirt is at the hinge or the spring. Or the opening is bent. The edging of the damage can be carefully worn off with a trowel, and the opening can be rusted, dirt from the hub or springs, kerosene, solvents, gasoline, etc. can be dripped in the hole of the hinge spring, and the opening can be opened and closed until the opening and closing is smooth, and then The iron lock is boiled in boiling water to remove the clean oil. The curved iron lock can no longer be used.

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